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Whisk(y)ed Away 2

  • krolesh
  • Apr 4, 2024
  • 2 min read

Thang Long


One day I explored the Thang Long citadel, which is where the new Viet capital was established in the 11th Century, after being moved from another part of Hanoi.


Throughout millennia of its history, Vietnam has had to deal with much larger and more powerful neighbours.


The huge kingdom of China occupied the country for 1000 years, from as way back as the 2nd Century BCE.


Over the centuries the Vietnamese have repelled many invaders, including the Champas, the Khmers and the Mongols. And then the French came. Eventually the Froggies were defeated, and then the Americans suffered the same fate, and then, as late as 1979, the Chinese again invaded Vietnam from the north, and were repelled by the battle-hardened Vietnamese army within a matter of weeks.


They were forced to retreat, with, I imagine, their dragon tails firmly between their legs.


Many Viets don't speak very highly of Chinese people, I might add, or of China itself.


But that's no surprise really. Close neighbours, particularly those with a huge power imbalance, often have the deepest rivalry of all.


I mean look at how much Kiwis love Aussies.



Flag tower




Huge parade grounds



Just like in Beijing, the imperial citadel included a forbidden city, the central fortified part, where the royal family hung out and did their thing.



The South Gate entrance.


They allowed me into the Forbidden City, which was a surprise to me as I thought it was forbidden. I felt so naughty.


The ancient citadel was also the seat of government and the command centre for the Vietnamese military during the American War, and had seriously fortified bunker action going on.



Rather thick outer walls




Vietnamese army drive-by on the occasion of their victory over the French



Armed forces sporting competition. This is the Best Superman event.



Interesting marching style, designed to bolster the stomach muscles of the comrades marching alongside you.



Uncle Ho being all warm and fuzzy



Historic flag raising ceremony after the French were forced to leave. Shame the ride-on was broken down that day. Always bloody happens when you really need it.








Paintings of a traditional Vietnamese water puppet performance. There's a water puppet theatre by Hoan Kiem lake, but I didn't see a performance this time, as I'd seen it before.


The art form involves puppeteers manipulating their beautiful puppets on top of a pond, acting out ancient tales. The beautiful art style was developed in the 11th Century in villages in the Red River Delta, which regularly flooded.


The performances are super interesting, including the traditional music, which is performed live, to accompany the puppet action.


Here's some web pics





There's a bunch of museums within the citadel complex. They abound in amazing and historic art, and old pics.







Hanoi, looking east from here in 1873.



Imperial visit in 1918



The King, Kai Dinh, with a handful of mandarins



Hanoi in the late 1910s



The long road to the deep underbelly, the bunker system



Safe room



Another Russian-made air filtration system




Where the war cabinet bunkered down during bombing attacks



Patriotic starfish



Portable missile control centre




The two main generals, as happy as Lá Rí, after they finally kicked out the Yanks.



Great vintage car for the Generals







Go to Part 3


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