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The Beholder's Eye 1

  • krolesh
  • Mar 28, 2024
  • 2 min read

Whilst what is regarded as beauty is indeed subjective, the natural world sometimes gifts us places or events that leave almost everyone thunderstruck, no matter who they are, and leave us all clamouring to pick up our jaws.


The area around Tam Cốc is one of those places. Gobsmackingly stunning wherever you look.





The landscape around here is made up of limestone karst formations, spearing out of flat rice paddies, waterways, forested bush and wetlands. There's skinny paths passing through tiny settlements or through the fields, flat tracks which are perfect to cycle on, especially when you feel like you've just cycled over the Himalayas, which I just have. Haven't I?


Well, it feels like it anyway.



Buddhist cemetery



Cute little back roads



Bought me a coffee. Skipped on the chilli.



That spot has my name on it. What did I do to deserve this?



Le Coq Café




It was a Sunday. This place is only a couple of hour's drive from Hanoi, so on the weekends it becomes a totally different place, and was seriously bustling. I skipped on the boat trips till the new week.







Hoa Lư


I rode out to Hoa Lư, which, believe it or not, used to be the capital of the whole Dai Viet kingdom between 968 and 1010. All the way out here.


In fact, King Dinh Bo Linh subjugated all 12 of the powerful fighting warlords in the north, and established the Kingdom's first feudal monarchy right here. He was a cultured guy, and established government services, developed exchanges and trading, he even minted coins, and then spent many of them on developing national culture and art.



Temple gate



Burdened beast







Touristy hats, but sometimes they're actually beautifully crafted, like the one on the left, which has its patterns woven into the hat, rather than just painted on it.



I saw steps, so of course I had to step up.



View over the ancient parade ground, where the medieval armies would've gathered and marched in formations, in all their finery





I climbed up further, onto the cliffs on the other side of the hill



It was worth it






Sunday-bested besties






It was such a pretty ride back to Tam Cốc.




Pete, Lisa and I went out for a drink by the river, and then had pizza. Pizza! Wood-fired, no less. It was bloody delicious, and, of course, was delivered at ridiculous tourist prices.


Relative though, of course.


But I don't care. I'm making the most of it while I can.



Go to Part 2

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