Copping It 4

Last Days In The Middle Kingdom

So now the time has come for me to leave China, even though I feel like I just got here.

I spent my last couple of days exploring more of Ürümqi and getting myself organised for my onward journey.

My street in the burbs. My hotel is the grey low rise on the right.

My street corner and fruit supply.

A pagoda and a little bit of untouched bush, swamped by the "development" of the city.

Local rattlebus. You don't see so many of these in Chinese cities these days.

Both of these were flashing at the same time. I didn't know what to do. It was like leading an Irishman into a round room and telling him to piss in the corner.

It's still about 800km from Ürümqi to the border with Kazakhstan, and I don't have time to ride it before my visa expires.

So I rode way out to a random bus station and bought a ticket to Almaty, the main Kazakh city over the border. They told me I can take my bike for free.

The bus station already felt like I was on my way out of the country. There were piles of Kazakhs outside, and signs were in both Chinese and Russian. The one for the Kazakhs explains that ticket purchases and the waiting room are on the second floor. The Chinese version is way more flowery, surprise surprise, titled "Kind Tips," and lists all the different types of people that may wish to use the lifts (sick, old, disabled etc) and then finally gives info about tickets and the waiting room.

There ain't no cutting to the chase in Chinese mate.

Made me think of the famous drummer Pete Wilkins. Boiler Room was the nickname Andrew gave him, for his indefatigable solid, tight and driving rhythms, always ready at any moment to explode to the next level of intensity.

There wasn't a boiler room in the building by the way. Just a place where you could get boiled water for your tea and noodles.

There's bikes around, but the number of riders is pretty small in this city, it's often only kids and young students riding around.

I sat in a café in a shopping mall, had one of these delicious drinks, and spent time writing and people watching. The translation called the drink "Domineering perfume orange."

It was dress-ups afternoon.

Late evening in the burbs

The view from my room

My last 24 hours in China were the perfect way to end my trip.

I went to a little eating place near my hotel, and got chatting to the women there. The food was unbelievably tasty, some of the best I've had in China.

Best in the west.

But actually the women make most of their money by doing a live stream, where they wander around with their camera chatting and doing stuff, including teaching people how to make the most amazing and elaborate culinary delights.

Once they heard I played music they asked me if I'd come and sing a few songs on their stream.

As much as I hate the limelight, and as introverted and shy as I am, they really twisted my arm and I said yes.

Haha.

I came back with my guitar and played a couple of songs, and they showed me all the lovehearts and kisses from their followers immediately pinging away as I sang. Not bragging, but there were lots. They must have a lot of followers, which I assume is quite easy in China, and I guess having a foreigner singing songs in English from the random back streets of Ürümqi isn't the most common sight for them.

After that I spent a couple of hours chatting to their 13 year old daughter, while they streamed away and made these incredibly delicious food dishes and juices, all of which they gave me copious amounts to try.

The daughter was so enthusiastic and so sweet, and was initially completely overawed by chatting with a foreigner for her very first time. But she eventually relaxed, and I got a great insight into teen life here, which is pretty much like teen life everywhere - except that, at 13, she's completely following the path set for her by her parents, and already has her life all mapped out.

A million miles away from my life as a 13 year old.

So, of course, the women insisted that I didn't pay for all the food I'd ordered and eaten before we even started chatting. Typical beautiful Chinese hospitality.

It rained in the evening! Yay! Haven't seen the rain for so long.

The air was clean and clear as I checked out of my hotel, loaded up, and headed to the bus station.

I stopped for lunch, had more delicious jaozi, and the young owner and I chatted away. As I went to leave he insisted I didn't pay for my food. Unbelievable.

And a fitting end to my China journey.

The Chinese people I've met, which includes people of all ethnic groups, have been some of the most incredibly generous and hospitable people I've ever met.

I can't count the number of times I've been invited to huge meals, drinks, snacks, and have enjoyed every manner of hospitality you could ever dream up.

I've starred in countless videos and selfies, sat with all sorts of different people, and had hundreds of random conversations. And every single one of them has been insightful in some way.

I've also made some very special deeper connections with people and families here, and that's been the most special thing.

What a hugely inspiring time it's been. And that's before I even think about all the incredible places I've visited, the rich culture I've been immersed in, and the magnificent landscapes I've been fascinated by.

And as for the Chinese government, well, that's another story.

One I've already told.