A Big Out Breath 1

Oh my Buddha. You've got no idea how good it feels to be back in Southeast Asia again.

My body's celebrating. It's suddenly being regularly nurtured by loads of fresh healthy food. The temperature's warm, or even hot, so I can finally stop freezing my butt off and get into some light clothes, instead of my puffer jacket and thermals. My hamstrings can finally stretch properly without killing me. There's not millions of people wherever I go.

As soon as I arrived in Bangkok I felt like I was home again. I found a really good little guesthouse with cheap fan rooms, and basically went out eating for two full days.

Being here is like having a very big and very long out breath.

Aaaaaaaaaaaaah.

It's chilled. You can walk down the street without having to dodge a million obstacles, hundreds of loudly beeping motorbikes, and swarms of people.

You wouldn't think Bangkok would be chilled, would you. But actually it is, in any of the back streets, and in many other places, at certain times of the day. And the people are chilled. They have what they need. Mainly. They're super super polite and unassuming.

It just feels so good ...

After we flew above the smog pall of Delhi, there was an amazing view of the Himalayas in the distance. We followed them for ages, heading southeast.

Sorry it's not clear. I saw all of the major mountains, including Everest (I think).

This, my friends, is Bangkok smog, from above.

But the watermelons and mangoes are so good down here I really don't care that I'm right inside this fat grey toxic plume right now. I am Pallish after all.

Bangkok's air quality index is around 22, averaged over the whole year. Generally, pollution readings of over 50 are deemed to be unsafe.

Delhi's annual average index is 146. Imagine living in that full time.

However Bangkok's air is worse than average at the moment, around 75, because of seasonal burning of crop remains by farmers in surrounding districts.

Khaosan Road pumping. There were loads more people than last time I was here, and the touts were way less hassley. Iain reckons it's because there's plenty more business to go around. Sounds logical.

I returned to the scene of the crime from a few months ago, where Iain and I had one joint too many (just one was too many after our beers), and then I smashed up my face and shoulder by crashing my bike.

Awww, makes me feel so nostalgic. Such good times. I look so happy.

Mmmmm, cha yen, cha yen!!! And in a comfy chair.

Another pic in my series on bad cannabis shop names.

Chinese New Year's coming up folks, the Year of the Dragon. They're everywhere.

Of course I went to Chinatown, I always do. I was really missing having hordes of people around me.

Dinner spot.

I ate so much that my hollow legs completely filled up, and I had lots of trouble getting home.

I watched this artist for ages.

Buddha inside his protective naga bubble

Awwww, Vishnu even made it to Bangkok, I already miss him.

My quiet street corner, where I sat and ate, and drank, and ate, and sat, and drank. The watermelons that woman was cutting up were so good I couldn't concentrate on anything except staring at them, and I nearly got run over when I walked towards her in a dribbling daze.

Sunset at the bus stop.

Man, cosplay is massive in Bangkok now. There were loads of young women dressed up in costume, just like you see in some parts of Tokyo. But I didn't take any pics, I didn't want to be rude. One of them got on my train, but all you can see are her fluffy ears.

Another cute eating place.

My delicious feast. Rice congee with eggs (they crack raw ones in there and they cook in the soup), slivers of ginger, springs onions, and the most delicious spicy flavours ever.

Back To Laos

Of course, I couldn't sit around forever, some of us have things to do you know, so after a couple of days I took the overnight train up to the northern border town of Nong Khai.

Don Meuang Railway Station in northern Bangkok was a shock. The trains were running on time. The information screens worked. There were staff everywhere to help passengers. I didn't know what had hit me, after India.

I mean, not judging India. Imagine trying to coordinate a train system so massively huge and complex, and with totally limited resources.

Overnight cattle class. There were no sleepers available, plus they're quite pricey in Thailand these days (relatively).

Dawn over the fields.

Chinese temple in Udon Thani. I went there a few months back when I rode through this area, on my Mekong loop trip.

I didn't think Thailand had an Emperor anymore, just a King.

Diamond in the rough

Awww, my dear sweet darling Mekong. This'll be my last time being near you for awhile, probably.

I captured the moment our bus ran over a young cow.

Or it could be that that didn't happen and I was too lazy to straighten my photo.

I stayed in my friends Michael and Jenni's house. They were actually away, which was a bummer, but it also wasn't a bummer at all, because I got to have a whole house to myself for a couple of days. What a treat! I honestly can't remember the last time I had that.

Oh yeah, my other Michael friend shouted me a beautiful hut in Nong Khiaw about 4 months ago. That was almost a house. But besides that I actually don't know.

The temple architecture in Laos is beautiful. But you don't see it everywhere. The most standout temples are in Luang Prabang and Vientiane.

Happy Chinese New Year of The Dragon The Planet To Ruin With Rampant Consumerism.

Wow, a drug free school! We should get some of those in Australia.

Reuniting with my trusty bike, Black Bewdy, was a little traumatic. She'd really let herself go when I was gone. Sad to see. Even one of her tubes was so deflated I had to fully replace it, and had to work hard to pump her up again.

But I coaxed her into a bit of a clean up, and, although she was a bit stiff and creaky to start with, she eventually loosened up.

Michael and Jenni live about 3 clicks from the centre of town. Every night I'd ride in and get some amazing food at places like this.

Another road victim.

I discovered a really good locals night market in town

Before

After

I had a cull. Frankie had kindly brought my down sleeping bag and fuel cooker to India, as I need it for China and Central Asia. Plus I have a new puffer jacket. And I bought some clothes in India. So certain things had to go, including this old fave, which I bought in Bangkok some years ago. I left it for Michael.

Gooey coconut pattie with a chewy outer edge. It was tasty.

It was great to have a couple of days alone to get myself organised - sort out my gear for riding, finance stuff, phone, getting on top of other things I had to do.

Go to Part 2

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